Silicones

Silicones are probably the most debated ingredient in the curly hair world. They're polymers that create a smooth, flexible coating on your hair — brilliant for shine, slip, and heat protection. But that same coating can also cause buildup that weighs down your curls. It's complicated.

What Silicones Actually Do

That silky, slippery feel after you condition? Probably silicones. They form a breathable, flexible film over each strand that protects against friction, heat damage, and environmental stress. They're also the reason detangling feels effortless.

The catch is that some silicones layer up over time. For fine, low-porosity, and wavy hair, this buildup can make your hair feel flat, heavy, and lifeless — the exact opposite of what you want.

But for high-porosity or damaged hair? Silicones can actually be a game-changer. Research shows that dimethicone and its derivatives fill in the micro-cracks of a damaged cuticle, adding thickness, smoothness, and shine. They essentially patch up the damage and lower your hair's porosity.

The Three Types You Should Know

Not all silicones are created equal, and we classify them by how easy they are to wash out:

Non-water-soluble silicones: The heavy hitters. These don't budge easily and typically need a stronger cleanser (often a sulfate shampoo) to fully remove. These are the ones most likely to cause buildup.

Water-soluble silicones: Much easier to remove — even water or a gentle sulphate-free cleanser can wash them away. All the shine and slip without the commitment.

Evaporative silicones: These disappear on their own. They evaporate after application, so they won't build up at all. Zero drama.

So, Should You Avoid Silicones?

Lorraine Massey took a hard stance in Curly Girl: The Handbook, recommending that curlies avoid all silicones because they can seal the cuticle and block moisture from getting in.

But the curly community has evolved since then. Most curl-savvy people now consider water-soluble and evaporative silicones perfectly fine, since they don't stick around long enough to cause the issues Massey warned about. The key is knowing which type is in your products and whether your cleansing routine can handle it.